Fly Fishing Forceps: What They Are, How to Use Them, and How to Pick the Right Pair

Fly fishing forceps are small, scissor-style locking clamps used to remove fly hooks from a fish's mouth. Most freshwater anglers rely on forceps to grip hook shanks, crimp barbs, tighten knots, and secure split shot weights without damaging the fish or the line.

So, when a trout twists in your hand and you’re struggling to grip a tiny hook, you need to remove the barbless fly within 2 seconds. Trout kept out of the water for more than 30 seconds face a higher risk of death, so using forceps correctly (and when not to) improves their post-release survival without injuring your hands.

Keep reading to learn more.

• Fly fishing forceps (look like a pair of scissors) remove hooks from fish, crimp barbs, tighten knots, and crimp split shot onto your leader.

• The 3 main forceps styles are straight-jaw, curved-jaw, and spring-loaded mitten clamps. Straight jaw forceps are the best starting point for most freshwater anglers building their assortment of fly fishing tools.

• Jaw alignment is the most important factor in buying decisions. Forceps with jaws that don’t meet evenly will slip on a hook shank at exactly the worst moment.

• Most freshwater anglers need 5-6-inch stainless steel forceps to complement their fly rods and fly reels setup. Saltwater anglers should consider corrosion-resistant upgrades.

• Forceps are ideal for size 8–22 flies. Use saltwater pliers for larger hooks or toothy species, like peacock bass or golden dorado. You should be able to access your forceps with one hand in under 2 seconds. Clip them to a vest, pack, or zinger.

Removing a hook from a fish requires both care and speed to ensure the fish will survive once you release it back to the water. We know how slimy and wiggly trout can get, so removing a hook from its mouth can be a great challenge for beginners.

For safe hook removal using forceps, follow these steps:

1. Keep the fish in or near the water at all times. Dry hands strip the slime coat that protects trout from infection.

2. Clamp the forceps onto the hook shank, which is the straight section of the hook between the eye and the bend.

3. Twist gently in the direction the hook entered.

4. Back the fly out slowly. With barbless hooks, forceps remove a fly in about 2 seconds. Barbed hooks take longer and risk more damage to the fish’s mouth, which is why most experienced anglers crimp barbs before their first cast.

Crimping barbs makes hook removal faster, while crimping split shot prevents it from sliding down the line or snagging on the hook. Here are the steps to crimp barbs and split shot with forceps:

• For barb crimping, close the flat jaws of the forceps directly across the barb.

• Squeeze firmly until the barb flattens against the hook shank. (It usually takes only 1 squeeze for us. Just keep squeezing if the barb doesn’t flatten on your first try.)

• For a split shot, position the weight on your leader where you want it.

• Place the forceps jaws around the split shot and squeeze until the weight grips the line and holds position during casting.

Forceps have different jaw shapes, sizes, and built-in features. The 4 most common styles are straight jaw, curved jaw, spring-loaded mitten clamps, and built-in cutters. Here’s a breakdown of each type:

Straight jaw forceps are the standard design and a good all-around choice for hook removal, barb crimping, and knot work. Most beginner anglers start with straight jaw forceps, and we know many experienced anglers who stick with them and never switch.

Meanwhile, curved jaw forceps have slightly angled tips, which makes it easier to reach hooks at awkward angles inside a fish’s mouth. Some trout anglers prefer them because trout often take flies deep in smaller mouths, like when a brown trout inhales an Elk Hair Caddis on a tight-mouthed drift.

Honestly, many experienced anglers don’t have a strong preference between the two. Both straight- and curved-jaw forceps work great, so just go with what feels comfortable in your hand.

Mitten clamps are forceps that pop open automatically via a tension spring when you release your grip, which is a big help for fishers with large hands or during winter fly fishing (when you’re wearing gloves).

However, squeezing down against the spring makes delicate tasks, like gripping a size 22 trico hook (a tiny mayfly pattern), a little harder than with standard forceps.

Some forceps have built-in cutters that let anglers trim line, clip tag ends on knots, and cut leader material without reaching for separate nippers (a small line-cutting tool that most anglers clip to their vest or chest pack). But if you always carry nippers in your pack, you don’t need built-in nippers.

Tip: Always check the cutter’s sharpness before you use it. Dull blades crush tippet material instead of cutting it cleanly, which weakens the line at the knot.

Fly fishing forceps are ideal for trout, panfish, and bass anglers working with smaller hooks in the size 8 to size 22 range. Compared to pliers, forceps are lighter, more precise, and better suited for catch-and-release trout fishing.

You can grab a pair of pliers if you’re targeting saltwater species like redfish, tarpon, bonefish, and snook, or any toothy freshwater fish where you need more jaw strength and torque.

Simple rule: Use forceps for size 8 to size 22 flies. Pick pliers for anything bigger than size 8.

You need to consider 3 factors when choosing fly fishing forceps: jaw alignment, size, and material. Here's why:

• Jaw Alignment: This is the most important factor. Forceps with jaws that meet evenly can grip a hook shank cleanly without slipping. Check alignment before buying. Hold the jaws up to the light and close them slowly. They should meet flat across the full jaw surface with no gap.
• Material: Stainless steel forceps resist corrosion in freshwater with basic care. Saltwater anglers targeting redfish, bonefish, or snook need higher-grade stainless or titanium-coated forceps. Standard stainless steel corrodes in saltwater without rinsing.
• Size: A 5-inch to 6-inch pair handles most freshwater trout and panfish situations without feeling clunky in your hand. Longer forceps give more reach for deep-set hooks; shorter ones offer more precision for tiny flies.

A note on jaw serrations. Most forceps have crosshatched serrations on the jaws for grip. Some have smooth jaws, which are gentler on hook finishes but grip less aggressively. For most fly fishing applications, crosshatched serrations are the better choice.

Our Wild Water 6" stainless steel forceps are long enough to remove hooks from fish without putting your fingers near the teeth or risking cuts from gill plates. Add our collection of fly fishing tools to complete your setup.

A quality pair of forceps lasts for years with proper upkeep. The hinge is the first thing to wear out, followed by the locking mechanism.

After each trip:

• Rinse forceps with fresh water, especially after any saltwater exposure. Salt accelerates corrosion even on stainless steel.
• Dry them before storing. Moisture trapped in the hinge speeds up wear.

Periodically:

• Apply a small drop of oil to the hinge. A lightweight gun oil or reel oil works well. This keeps the action smooth and prevents the locking mechanism from stiffening.
• Check jaw alignment. If the jaws no longer meet evenly, the forceps will slip on the hook shanks.
• Check the locking ratchet. If it no longer clicks firmly or releases too easily, the mechanism is worn.

Here's when to replace: Forceps with a wobbly hinge or misaligned jaws will slip at the worst moment. If yours are worn out, replace them. A new pair costs less than $25.

Clip your forceps to your vest, chest pack, or sling pack so they’re always within easy reach. Most anglers store them alongside fly boxes, tippet spools, floatant, and strike indicators. Use our Wild Water retractable zinger to keep forceps within your arm’s reach and snap them back into position automatically when you let go.

The goal is to grab your forceps with one hand in under 2 seconds. If you’re just getting started in fly fishing, check out our starter package kits. Each kit includes a rod, reel, line, leader, and a protective case. Read our beginner's guide on how to set up a fly fishing kit so you can assemble your gear the right way.